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The information contained on this website is based on the experience of the author (s) and is only being provided to show their method used to achieve the desired results.

First they look very boring and it needs some discipline for a layman to work through them. But once you've read a few chapters, you will note that slowly something of a "big picture" is about to emerge. Recommended Books I'd like to recommend a few books that I found worth reading. In accordance with what I've written above, some of them are textbooks on geology, and only a few deal specifically with quartz. Porter A well written introductory textbook on physical geology with lots of figures.

Fowler This book has nothing to do with quartz but is about the inner workings of the planet earth, and it clearly addresses expert readers and undergraduate students of geology. However, I had more than one aha experience when reading it, so for those of you who "want to know", it is listed.

Different from most textbooks on mineralogy that simply count off minerals following to the Dana or Strunz system , it introduces minerals and mineral groups in the context of geological environments. Minerale und Gesteine - Eigenschaften - Bildung - Entstehung, by Gregor Markl This book is a very nice introduction into petrology and its methods and is mentioned because it is a very notable exception from German scientific literature: The System of Mineralogy of J.

Or are there different steps to be taken that differ from your article here. My barrel came off very easy. If you use acetone with Kroil it really breaks down any adhesives. Also suede leather can be used to help grip barrel in vise. Hope my experiences help. Mail will not be published required. Subscribe by Email Enter your email address:.

The information contained on this website is based on the experience of the author s and is only being provided to show their method used to achieve the desired results. What you do with this information is your choice and your responsibility. Persons choosing to use this information do so at their own accord and risk, and thus assume any and all responsibility for any damage, injury or death as a result. It is recommended that you always have a gunsmith check any work you do before firing a rifle you have altered.

How to Build or Rebarrel a Savage Rifle. Click the images for a larger view. Many of us have heard of guys building their own tack driving rifles. Usually their buddy is a machinist and they have access to a lathe and other tools. They also have some Remington M just laying around collecting dust they can use for their build.

The good news is that with a little reading and some cheap tools you can build your own custom tack driver. The really exciting news is that you can do it relatively cheap. I wanted something I could shoot varmints or large game with. I wanted a custom hand lapped barrel. I wanted a stock that fit me well and was comfortable to use prone. The easiest way for me to illustrate building a Savage custom rifle is for me to walk you through my own build and the things I learned.

The first thing I did is decide that I wanted a. With my caliber being decided I began to look for a Savage short action rifle to base my build on. Regardless of what your opinions of Savage are they really work for what we are doing better than any other rifle ever made. I found a Savage Short action model 11 in. It was a youth model so the barrel was 20 inches and the stock was extra short.

The rifle was the old action screw spacing of 4. Nevertheless, I did get the Savage Accutrigger down to 26 ounces and have been very happy with it.

As a side note I found someone else doing a build who wanted my 20 inch barrel. The next thing to decide was what barrel to get. If I was going to pay for a custom barrel I wanted it to be hand lapped. After much research, many phone calls and some mental anguish I decided on a McGowen Precision barrel.

They were a little hard to get a hold of on the phone, I assume because of how busy they are. They were very nice, patient, and extremely knowledgeable.

McGowen Precision offers barrels for Savage actions that are completely chambered, threaded, and ready to screw on. McGowen Precision hand laps their barrels for a mirror smooth finish that is easy to clean. I wanted a 30 inch barrel for better velocity and had to pay a little more for it. Since I wrote this McGowen has changed a few things. Their chrome molly Savage pre-fit barrels now come blued and are an exceptional deal for the money. McGowen took about 3 weeks to get me my barrel which was excellent.

It really might have been my fault. I called them and they were great. They had the barrel back to me inside of a week and they paid the shipping. Visit McGowen Precision Barrels. Regardless of what barrel manufacturer you choose make sure the barrel you order is threaded and fully chambered. Most manufactures refer to this as Savage Pre-Fit. There are many excellent options available but the features combined with the price point were unbeatable.

The stock has excellent ergonomics for shooting almost any position. I especially like the vertical handgrip for shooting prone. I had already owned one of these stocks and used it on a Rem LA. I have been nothing but happy with their stocks. The factory Savage stocks can be bedded, forearms stiffened, and barrel channel opened if needed. I have also heard of people successfully using automobile bondo to change the shape of the stock to one more desirable for their shooting needs.

The recoil lugs that Savage uses are anything but precise. I measured mine after removing it and found it to be substantially thicker on one side than the other. Regardless of the imprecise recoil lug many Savages shoot great out of the box. I opted to replace it with a thicker more precise stainless steel recoil lug made by Sharp Shooter Supply. No soldering just pull the bolt out of the back and switch bolt handles. Sharp Shooter Supply also offers different options for bolt handles.

Changing the bolt handle is not necessary and would reduce your costs in the build by not doing it. I felt that it might stiffen my action and help with accuracy. I chose a Ken Farrel base. Farrel Industries has been making rings and bases for years and are known for excellent quality and customer service.

The base also has a bedding channel on the bottom to make sure it fits your action without creating any stress. Ken Farrel bases and rings are among the best available. Read more about Ken Farrel Bases by visiting their website. There are other options for bases that cost less and that will work fine.

Regardless of what scope you are using the Burris Signature Zee Rings are an excellent choice. They give you the ability to mechanically zero your rifle or add elevation. Read a full review on Burris Signature Zee Rings. Some of the tools and supplies you will need for assembling your rifle are nice to have but not necessary. There are two ways to look at tools.

The barrel nut wrench is one of the tools you have to have. It can be bought at several different places. Sharp Shooter Supply carries them. It came with excellent instructions. These are nice to have but cost a lot of money considering they only work marginally well. The ones that work the best cost so much money that they will make your build more expensive than it should be. If you already have one or know someone that has one great! As a substitute and for the purpose of holding everything you can use two pieces of hardwood and some clamps or a regular shop vise.

I cut grooves in the pieces of wood with a table saw to create a barrel channel. This is a relatively expensive tool but I think your money is better spent on this than on a barrel vise.

I did my first build without one. It can be done. It does really make things easier if you have one. Also, you can get by without a barrel vise if you have an action wrench. You will use this tool for both removing the old barrel and putting on a new one.

I have an acquaintance that built one out of wood that apparently works excellent. This is another one of those tools that in my opinion is necessary. There are guys that successfully build savage rifles that only use a piece of new brass for headspacing. However, they might not ever be able to use factory ammunition and they might have to always buy the brand of brass they used.

There is no guarantee that brass will be. Never Use a Live Cartridge for Headspacing! This is a tool that is not necessary. I bought mine at NAPA.

They use it on Spark plugs. It only costs a few dollars. You use it on the barrel threads. Buy a Savage action that is already chambered with a cartridge that uses the same bolt face as the one you will be building.

If you are going to build a magnum get a rifle with a magnum bolt face i. This will save you time, money, and hassle. The problem is that Savage made changes to their rifles over the years that complicate changing the bolt face. If you bought a really old action and then try to change the bolt face you may run into complications. It can be done it just might not be easy.

Sharp Shooter Supply has some information about this on their website that might be useful see references at the bottom of this page. Also, be aware that the Savage WSM actions come from the factory with a larger barrel shank diameter.

If you are going to be picky about the stock you use make sure the stock manufacturer makes one that fits your action screw spacing. When you go buy an action bring something to measure action screws with.